There is a huge difference between builders and designers. Sure, a builder can be a great designer and a designer can be a great builder but they are two very different things.

Building is a hands-on skill that can be taught and the level of skill increased with time and practice.  Let’s face it; anyone can weld well. Really….Anyone can. You only need the proper tools, thorough training and a lot of practice.

The other hand is designing. To design something is to understand how things work mechanically, knowing the ability of materials and to make the something aesthetically pleasing. Not everyone can do it. There are a few special people that can really design something that not only functions as it should but is also a piece of art. Google images of Alvar Aalto’s architecture, Saul Bass’s graphic design or Matthew Carter’s typography.

In this month’s feature we are lucky enough to have two builders that are also great designers. Both have a wall of trophies, public recognition and a waiting list of orders to build. They have the building skills as any more senior member of that discipline but also were blessed with the ability of design. Take Peek Cycle’s full suspension cruiser in this month’s issue. The bike dons not only a custom leaf spring front fork but a leaf spring rear suspension. Then look at Tudorbuilt’s rendition of a stretched cruiser crossed with a Curtiss P-40 Warhawk and a P-51 Mustang. It has an amazingly designed yet so simplistic kickstand as well as a mounted baby drop bomb fitted with electronics and storage. Both bikes are built extremely well with fit and function at high levels of perfection. Both are also designed to work as a long ride super comfortable cruiser, built with easily available materials and full of so much beauty that you aren’t sure if they are just supposed to be looked at or actually ridden.

Speaking of designing and building. Check out our Part Review. Michigan Built designed a kickstand to fit finished square tube frames. They also build them with an outstanding level of precision. Tim Sanders of Michigan Built is proof that you can design and build just as much as those building complete custom bikes.

Also in this month’s issue is Smoopy’s Bike Shop. It isn’t your standard bike shop filled with overpriced generic bikes and day-glo spandex. This is a shop that builds custom bike with that vintage flair. Check upcoming issues for a feature on a bike built by Smoopy’s Bike Shop=

We have new products that should fit anyone’s bill. Whether you’re into full customs or muscle bikes there is something for you.

Need to replace your rear hub but are worried about lacing a wheel?  We got a quick how to that shows you that lacing a standard wheel is about the easiest thing you can do in an hour.

Until next issue…thanks for reading and the best way to help Kustomized Bicycle Magazine is to share our social media links around.


Editor - KBM


Cuda Custom Cycles has released its new “Cuda Bobber” frame. This frame is for the individual that's wants nice styled shorter frame instead of the lower stretched wild style. By taking their very popular cruiser frame and bringing in the geometry a bit this frame is sure to be a fast handling and comfortable ride. The frame is designed for a 29" front rim and a 26"x 100mm rear. The head tube and BB are from Solid Bikes that's on all Cuda bicycles. The rear dropouts our CUDA original design that's on all our bikes disc brake ready. The BB is set to sit at 10" - 11" (center) off the ground depending on the tire style used. Which allows 3" - 4" clearance off the ground for the pedal if using 165mm crank arms. The center of the BB is 25" to the top of the seat post. The center of head tube is 32" to seat post horizontally. The Seat post size is 25mm. The frame itself is selling for $425.00 but you can get a package deal with the frame and a set of square tube forks for $600.00. Contact Cuda to purchase the new “Cuda Bobber” or any of their other custom bike parts.


Peek Cycles has done it again by releasing their Double Evil bars to the masses. Originally they were a one off design Peek designed and fabricated for Wim’s “El Morado” that was a focal point at Shiny Side Up 2016. They are finally hitting the market. They are a beautiful piece and Peek’s quality is always awesome. The word on the street is that they will also come in a taller “Ape Hanger” design as well. Hit Peek Cycles up if you need a pair of some of the coolest bars of 2016.

VEE TIRE Apache Fattyslick 26X4.7"

Two years ago the 100mm hoop was all everyone could talk about. Earlier this year the 130mm hit the market and though everyone wanted a set figuring out hubs and tires was proving to be a bit of an issue. The tires we could find were either really poor performing cheap tires from big box store bikes or some seriously expensive hardcore knobby tires from the high end big tire bike builders. A lot of builders have been running the slick styled tires on their custom bikes. Vee Tire must have been watching what was going on in the market pretty closely.

Vee Tire is bringing to market what we think will be the savior of the 130mm wheel. The Apache Fatty Slick is available in 26”x4.7” and claims that they will have the lowest rolling resistance on the market.

It is made of their Silica Compound for long life and great grip. The Silica compound was borrowed from the automotive and motorcycle industry and is a rubber that has superior performance in colder weather. It is a softer material that keeps its low resistance and flexibility in all temperatures with a rating of 57 on the hardness scale.

The tire casing is 120 TPI which should be more than adequate in carrying the weight of some of the more weighty custom bike frames.

They say it is for 80-100mm wheels (but who of us hasn’t put a 2.125” on an 80mm hoop?).

The tread is the standard folding bead design. Trying to pry those cheaper wire beads over your custom painted hoops won’t be a problem. In fact, the bead is so well designed that you could ever run them tubeless.

The recommended pressure is between 20-40 PSI.

These tires won’t be released until December 2016 or January 2017 but looks like it may be a huge game changer to the custom bicycle market. Kustomized Bicycle Magazine is working with Vee Tire to get a set in to review so keep reading and we will let you know and upcoming information.

Michigan Built Aluminum Kickstand

TASTE: Aluminum doesn’t taste like much so we tried the stainless steel fasteners…still nothing.

SMELL: A little cutting fluid waived through the office air.

Touch: Lighter than it looks and a little warm. But the package sat in the mailbox which is out in the sun for most of the day.

Look: Very nice looking freshly machined part.


Michigan Built has done it again and really knocked it out of the park. You may recall last month’s new part review of the Shimano Grip Shift aluminum cover from Michigan Built that really add some much needed style to those no so pleasant looking grip shifts. Tim Sanders of Michigan Built sent us another package that was stamped “SUPER TOP SECRET”. 

Several months ago Michigan Built released their weld-on kickstand. So far there have been rave reviews from the top builders….seriously, we have talked to them.  

But what is a guy to do that needs a kickstand for a square tube frame that already has it painted or powder coated? Tim Sanders came up with the solution. A clamping styled connection gives a large area for a firm partnership between the frame and the kick stand (a lot of square tubed frames are a bit weighty and need a very solid mount). The kickstand itself is all machined in house by Michigan Built. It is spring loaded so when closed it stays tightly locked in that position. The extra-long arm gives you plenty of meat to cut on so the kickstand fits your bike anywhere you put it on your frame.

After some testing by Kustomized Bicycle Magazine we can honestly say this is a kick ass piece of work.  We received the prototype in a raw machined finish. Tim Sanders also went out of his way and milled some custom grooves into the kickstand arm to match last year’s Kustomized Bicycle Magazine’s build’s shifter. We snapped some pictures of it then went to the shop for a quick polishing. The first thing we really noticed is how light the assembly is. That is always a plus when adding things to an already pretty weighty ride. Once polished we went back into the office for some more pictures then headed back to the shop to install it on the bike. It took all of three minutes to find a good location and we used the stainless hardware Michigan Built sent in the “SUPER TOP SECRET” package. The package came with stainless bolts and lock washers. The front side cap holes are threaded so there are no unsightly nuts to stick out. This gives the assembly a very clean and appealing look to the piece.

The kickstand leg was way to long for our mounting position so we loosened the hidden grub screw on the back of the arm and slid the leg out. Tim does this on purpose so the leg can be cut to adjust to the position on any bike. Through a little trial an error we ended up adjusting the leg until the kickstand took the full weight of the bike and the bike was standing at the proper angle to make the bike stand while solidly leaning on the kickstand. Kicking the kickstand up was simple and very easy. Almost too easy we thought. Does it hold tightly enough to stay closed while riding some rough terrain?

The next morning, we loaded up the bikes and headed to the Denver Tour De Fat. The kickstand worked flawlessly on both pavement and grass. It held in place throughout the ride where we purposely popped off a few curbs and ran over the roughest road surfaces we could find on the route. The design and fabrication was flawless. Several people checking out the bike noticed the kickstand and all thought it was a beautiful piece of work.

We give this new part a 5 out of 5 for looks and use.  You can’t go wrong with this kickstand.

Michigan Built is constantly releasing the best looking and most advanced parts for custom bikes. If you want a weld on or bolt on kickstand they have you covered. The kickstands come in a machined finish and if you want any custom milling they are more than able to accommodate your needs.  If you need something off the wall and completely custom fabricated for your ride you should probably talk to Tim and have him build the one-off items your bike can’t live without.

Memphis bell

Lance Tudor of Tudorbuilt has fabricated some of the most recognizable bicycles in the past few years.

The Memphis Belle was rolled from Tudorbuilt shop for the 2016 Custom Builders Challenge. The public was stunned when it was first rolled out for viewing. Lance built the bike based on the famous World War Two United States bomber Memphis Belle. By “built” we mean everything. This is no assembly of parts with a pretty paint job. Lance started by designing his bike up front so there were no hidden problems during assembly. He fabricated a full custom stretched cruiser frame complete with bomb rear drop outs. The frame fits a drop bomb hanging from the belly and has an innovative built in kick stand bushing sleeve.

The front fork is the working parts from a Girven suspension front end which Lance disassembled and fabricated custom fork legs for. The fork was topped with a set of custom cruiser bars also fabricated by Lance.

The top section of the frame was turned into a tank by molding custom sheet metal to the frame and attaching everything with rivets. Small mid panels incorporate a set of punched louvers on each side resembling the exhaust vents on the P-51 Mustang. These smaller hinged panels also hide wiring and red lights as well as the switch. The lights show through the louvers making it look like an extremely hot engine is housed inside of the paneling.

Hanging from the bottom of the frame is a small bomb. Yup, a bomb. The bomb has a hinged panel that can be used for stowing whatever you need to. Behind the bomb is a sleeve welded to the frame. It is without a doubt the most simplistic yet ingenious kickstand. Inside the sleeve is a set of bronze bushings. What fits inside the bushing is a customized wrench that has a round section that slides in the bushings on one end. You can simply slide the wrench out and stuff it in your back pocket or the bomb tank and take off. When you want to park this custom you pull the wrench from your pocket and slide the rounded end back into the bushings and lean the bike on the wrench.

The drivetrain is an extra wide sealed bottom bracket with a set of three piece cranks and a custom chain ring. Sending the pedal power from the chain ring to the cog is a few half-link copper chains put together. Keeping the chain in place when it is that long is pretty difficult. Lance welded in the mount for a wide black skateboard wheel to act as a tensioner.

Rolling stock is a set of chromed wheels consisting of a 29”x80 mm front wheel and a 26”x100 mm rear wheel. They are capped with a set of Schwalbe Big apples.

With all the mechanics done Lance started with a vast array of details. The frame was drilled and riveted to match the custom tank. Blacked out tail lights were added then the wiring was ran through the frame to keep it hidden. Up front a KC headlight was fitted with LED lights and a self-contained switch. A tractor seat (a Tudorbuilt staple) was refinished and added behind the tank for all the cruising comfort you can ask for.

The whole assembly were then handed off to Majestic Paint and painted with the standard World War Two fighter belly gray with an OD Green top. With the primer and paint completed, Bruce Rosier was called in to work his magic. Heat and smoke were airbrushed coming from the vents of the tank. The Memphis Belle name and pinup were painted on the tank and the bomb is painted with the notorious Curtiss P-40 Warhawk shark mouth.

All in all, Tudorbuilt turned out another classic that will be remembered for years to come. Lance continues to put out some of the best designed and most beautifully detailed custom bicycles. Tudorbuilt take custom orders so if you are in need of a super cool custom bicycle you may want to give Lance and his crew a call and see what they can do for you.

smoke wagon

We pretty much have Jimmy Peek and Peek Cycle’s name on “Cntrl V” here at the Kustomized Bicycle Magazine office. Peek Cycles is one of the most well-known custom bicycle names in the scene and Jimmy is known for his workmanship and creative design. When Peek Cycles rolled out the Smoke Wagon for the 2016 Custom Builders Challenge the bike definitely showed why he is one of the top builders.

The Smoke Wagon is a one off custom bike that has not only a leaf spring front suspension but it has a leaf spring rear suspension. Jimmy stared out by with the main frame that was designed using some very comfortable foot forward geometry. Then in typical Peek style he went off the “normal bike” rails and developed the matching suspension. Most builders stay away from rear suspension as keeping the chain tension correct requires a whole bunch of math. But Jimmy did the equations and the Smoke Wagon does indeed work like a top performer. Top and bottom chain tensioners really do the trick. If you look closely you will see a very innovative way to get the rear suspension to pivot. A second bottom bracket shell with a sealed bottom bracket hook to the rear suspension legs.

The front fork looks to be the standard triple tree until you see the leaf spring and rockers. If you do a double take of the rocker assembly you will find that it is a front to rear pivot instead of the normal mid-rocker axle mount. If you get thirsty on the ride there is also a whiskey flask built in to the right fork leg.

Topping the forks are the copper plated and polished triple trees topped with a copper plated set of reverse mounted bars to give the whole front end a very early 1900s board track look. All the plating throughout the bike was done by West Coast plating in Oceanside California

Rolling stock are a set of fat 24” wheels coated in red with custom accents painted around the inner diameter. We mean fat by the way. The rear tire looks stock but is really a 4.5” wide piece of rubber.

The drivetrain is ready for some serious miles with the sealed bottom bracket and three piece cranks that sandwich a flat copper plated chain ring.

If Jimmy does one thing the best it would be his refined details. The frame was coated in a beautiful bronze hammer tone all done by Electrotech in San Marcos California.  All the paint/pin striping and foil inlays were done by Mr. Wim aka Jaime Trevino from San Jose California.

Really setting off the custom build is the tank built by Dano Robinson of Kustom Krafts. What looks to be a solid piece of custom painted and pinstriped then stained wood actually supports an inner cabinet. Hiding the hinges allows the rider to hide about anything inside. Jimmy stashed his own favorites inside the velvet lined compartment. Need some copper shooter mugs? The Smoke Wagon is your bike. Want a smoke a cigar or three the size of a hog’s leg? Yeah, the Smoke Wagon has them. Got some lowlife wanting to head to the road outside the saloon for a dual? The Smoke Wagon has its trusty six shooter hidden inside.

This bike is a statement to why Peek Cycles continuously shows up in Kustomized Bicycle Magazine and why Jimmy Peek is known as one of the best builders around.

Flying Machine Bike Co.

Anthony Hobbs has taken the jump feet first into the custom bicycle world by starting his own store front at 748 North Texas St, Farfield, California. We have been watching Anthony building some of the best custom bicycles for some time now and were happy to see him take the plunge. He is a square tube master and his shop will offer full custom frames and forks and will also be a dealer for Lowlife Bicycle frames (the Twisted Sister Squared build was amazing), Ruff and HBBC.

If you are looking for one off custom builds or some of the best parts give Flying Machine Bike Co. a call and you will be thrilled with what you get.

“Long and low is the way to go” – Andrew Logan; Smoopy;s Vintage Bicycles

Smoopy’s Vintage Bicycles is a pretty well-known name in the vintage bike world. They have a beautiful bike shop in Murfreesboro, Tennessee and are known to be the “go-to” place for some hard to find parts for all the vintage projects across the country. Smoopys; is also one of the top restoration shops.  But this isn’t just a bike shop that carries old stuff and restores vintage bicycles. Andrew Logan is the owner and is well known for building some of the coolest custom bikes around. His custom pieces have that old school flare ranging from the 40’s to the 70’s and are always crowd pleasers and show winners.

Kustomized Bicycle Magazine talked with Andrew about how he got his start, how things are going as a bicycle shop owner but mostly about his jaw dropping custom bikes. Read on to check it out…

(KBM): When did your shop form and what is your background pertaining to fabrication and design?

(SVB): We formed in late 2006 and made our home every weekend at the flea market in Woodbury, TN. I moved the shop into my hometown of Murfreesboro, TN in early 2009. M'boro is a college town and our shop is just two miles from campus, we have a huge student following. We also cater to the hot rod/rat rod crowd who want that cool kustom bike to complement their ride. We also are a full restoration shop offering many levels of resto from "just get it running" to full blown concourse restorations 

(KBM): Who originally got you into bicycles and can take credit for your hands-on interest?

(SVB): I'm a child of the 80's. I grew up everything BMX..riding, racing, building, you name it, we did it. Growing up in the suburbs of Murfreesboro, I had plenty of friend who did the same. We even built our own BMX pump track in a thicket of trees behind our school. I guess I credit the decade of my childhood to my love of bicycles

(KBM): What is your favorite bike you have built to date?

(SVB): Man!! That’s a tough question. I've built quite a few and they are all different. All of my bikes I built have their own unique style that sets them apart from the others that makes me like them all. I have also restored some great bikes for clients that I really like. I guess it would be a toss-up between "Tuco" a 1956 Schwinn Black Phantom dressed up as a rat rod, featured in Old Skool Rodz issue #67 and "Schnot-Rod"  a 1961 Schwinn Tiger I put a TON of fab work into the back end to achieve a nice low stance and the ability to run a wide tire. We have been told by many people their build was inspired by "Schnot-Rod" so that's pretty rad.

(KBM): With the explosion of the custom bike world in the last few years where do you see this scene going?

(SVB): Nowhere; but up. I’m amazed at not only all the custom parts available; but all the custom builders out there who are building some over the top whips. When I started in this business back in '06, I wanted so bad to see the bicycle evolve into something no one had ever seen before. And it has done just that!! I just hope the trend we see in Cali migrates eastward more every day. 

(KBM): If someone hasn’t seen Smoopy’s bike how would you describe its style?

(SVB): we call them "glorified junk" LOL..seriously, the style is simple..a cool, clean, understated, "make you look twice" kind of bicycle. I want you to take a glance and say "wow, that's cool"; but then you look deeper and start to see the little details you are blown away

(KBM): Is your shop a one stop shop? Do you build custom bikes that are ready to ride or a series of pieces that can be purchased together?

(SVB): We seem to think so, if we don't have it, we can get it. We try to keep a good stock of kustom parts around so people can customize their ride on any level; whether it is a full blown build or just a simple bar and seat change.

(KBM): What is your favorite style of bike to build: chopper, bobber, stretched cruiser?

(SVB): Most people would say my favorite style is Schwinn..LOL..I like them all, and have built them all. I do have a fondness for stretched out cruiser though. Long and low is the way to go. And you can quote me

(KBM): When not in the shop building bikes what do you spend your time doing?

(SVB): at the current time, running (or should I say walking) all around our town with my wife and two daughters ages 11 and 7 playing Poke'mon Go. LOL. Other than that, just normal guy and husband stuff. 

(KBM): What is your favorite tool in the shop and what is usually playing on the stereo?

(SVB): well, in the restoration and refurb game, and if you work on Schwinn's and they need re-paints or powders. The Park Tool KS-1 Schwinn kickstand removal tool is priceless. Mine is worn out and has been repaired more than once. And it still works fine. I don't know what I would do without it.

We have SIRRUS/XM radio at the shop so we alternate stations; but usually lands on 1st gen rock, heavy metal, & early 80's alternative 

(KBM): If a person hasn’t had access to the settings, tools, and skills like welding, fabrication, paint, etc. What is a good first step to take in learning what it takes to build a project bike?

(SVB): Good Question, I would say the first step would be to learn the basics of assembly and disassembly of a bike. So many times the bearings get switched around, headsets not seated properly, pedals put on the wrong sides, etc. A custom bike is nothing unless you put it back together properly. The next step would be to hop on the internet and just look at other builds and builders work. You can get huge amounts of information on the interwebs. Just look on the KBM site and you'll find quite a bit of useful information and some cool rides.(Shameless plug) 

(KBM): What is next for your shop? Upcoming projects, lines of parts?

(SVB): We are throwing around the idea of possibly bringing some more lowrider bicycle parts into the shop and possibly get that trend going around our neck of the woods. Other than that, we just plan more shows and attending more shows as well

HUB Replacement / Wheel Lacing

It has been said that you aren’t a bike builder until you build your own wheels. This may be the case but don’t believe the tales that to build a wheel you need some sort of magic power. Granted, wheel builders that are doing customized lacing designs or using custom components are much farther along than this feature will discuss but it is all started with the same basics. Lacing your first wheel is actually very basic and can be done with very few tools and can be completed in and hour. In this feature we will be replacing a hub with an identical hub (not actually identical but the important factor listed below are identical).

There are two important factors when it comes to replacing a hub.

1.       Spoke hole distance from the centerline of the axle to the middle of the spoke hole - Changes in the measurement will require different length spokes. You will be safe if you are within a millimeter or two.

2.       Number of spokes the hub is drilled for - The standard number of spokes is 36 but there are hubs that are drilled for 32, 48, 72, 138, 144 and some other more interesting numbers.


Hoop: the wheel

Spoke: the 36 metal rods that are threaded on one end and bent and peened on the other.

Nipple: the fastener that goes through the hoop and threads onto the spoke. Note that these aren’t the strongest of metals usually so be gentle with them.

Hub: the assembly housing the coaster brake, cog and axle.

Tools Needed:

Large and flat blade screw driver

Spoke wrench sized to your spokes

  Note about spoke wrenches: Use only quality spoke wrenches. Nipples are usually made from pretty soft metal and can be marred or stripped easily. A quality spoke wrench will fit the nipple tightly and not damage the nipple. A quality spoke wrench will also not mar the spokes when tightening a nipple. The last thing you want is to scratch your freshly polished, painted or powder coated spokes. The ring style spoke wrench as shown below may get you through a wheel build but could possible do more damage than good. Cheap quality spoke wrenches are the loop style with covered ends (plus different colored covers tell you what size they are). The high end wing-nut style are great tools to have but if you are only doing wheel work every now and then they may not be cost effective.

We are replacing the stock single speed coaster brake hub with a Shimano Nexus 3 speed version. We reviewed this hub in the September 2016 issue of Kustomized Bicycle Magazine. Go to the archive and check it out if you are so inclined. Luckily a lot of stock lower priced hubs have the same important factors listed above that the Shimano hubs have. Shimano, being the biggest name in bike components lead the market and therefore other companies match their dimensions to improve interchangeability. We are also following the standard spoke pattern that most factory wheels follow. It is known by many names but most call it the “over two under one” pattern.


1.       Deflate the tube and remove the tire, tube and rim strip.

2.       Remove the cog from the hub. This will allow you to get all the spokes out of the hub.

3.       Our wheel was pretty old so we sprayed the inside of each nipple with some penetrating oil a few hours before using a wide blade screwdriver to start loosening each nipple. Do not remove any nipples at this point. Just loosen by 3-4 turns. If you think a screw driver isn’t working well on your nipples and are marring up the slot than grab a spoke wrench and use it to loosen the other side of the nipples.  A screwdriver is just a faster method.

4.       Remove each nipple by hand and place it in some sort of container. This isn’t the time to start losing parts and nipples have an uncanny way of disappearing once they hit the floor. Once the nipples are removed the hub and spokes can be removed from the hoop. Remove all the spokes from the hub.

5.       Before building the wheel make sure all parts are clean. Once clean we dip the threaded end of each spoke in Park Tool PolyLube 1000 (part no. PPL-2). This will help prevent cross threading, seal the threading once fully tightened and allow for easy loosening and tightening miles down the road.

6.       Run one spoke through the hub from outside to inside. (It is impossible to get the spokes through the hub and to their proper hole if you start running the spokes from the inside to the outside.) Find the valve stem hole in the hoop and put the threaded end of the spoke through the spoke hole to the left of the valve stem hole. Thread a nipple onto the spoke with three full revolutions.

7.       Skip one hole clockwise on the hub and run another spoke from inside to outside. Do not count the valve stem hole and count clockwise four spoke holes. Push the threaded end of the spoke through the hole and thread a nipple onto the spoke with three full revolutions.

8.       Follow step seven until every other hole on that side of the hub is full.

9.       Flip the wheel assembly over so you have access to the spoke holes on the other side.

10.   Looking though the hub locate the spoke hole just to the right of the original hole you spoked from Step #6.

11.   Run one spoke through the hub from outside to inside. Place the end of the spoke in the hole to the right of the original spoke hole. Not that “right” is the opposite of the original right because the wheel has been turned over. Thread a nipple onto the spoke with three full revolutions.

12.   Follow step eleven until every other hole on that side of the hub is full.

Your wheel should now have all the outside to inside spokes ran.  Congratulations, you are half way there.

13.   Using any hub spoke hole run a spoke through the hole from inside to outside.

14.   Rotate the hub within the hoop counter clockwise until the spokes are tight. 

15.   This is where the “over two under one” name comes in.  Rotate the new spoke the opposite way of the existing spokes. Go over two spoke, under the third and skip the next hole. Place the spoke in the next hole and thread a nipple onto the spoke with three full revolutions.

16.   Follow step 15 until all the spoke holes on that side of the hub was complete.

17.   Flip the wheel assembly over so you have access to the spoke holes on the other side.

18.   Follow step 15 until all the spoke holes on that side of the hub was complete.

Congratulations, the lacing of your wheel is complete.

19.   Find the valve stem hole and starting with the nipple to the right use a wide flat blade screwdriver and tighten the nipple four full revolutions. Do this with each nipple until you reach the valve stem hole again.

20.   Follow step 19 with three full screwdriver revolutions.

21.   Follow step 19 with two full screwdriver revolutions.

At this point the nipples should be tight and the spokes pulled firm through the lacing. If not then follow step #21 until the spokes are tight. Going forward you will need to get the wheel trued by a knowledgeable mechanic with the proper tools then reinstall the rim strip, tube and tire. Most bike shops will true a wheel for $15.00-$20.00 dollars and can have it done in less than 30 minutes. Keep reading Kustomized Bicycle Magazine and we just might have a wheel truing how-to in the near future.

History of Lowriding

Lowriders: Cars & Culture

The Longmont Museum opened a one of a kind exhibit last month. Lowriders: Cars & Culture features cars, custom bicycles, pinstriping and upholstery examples, old-school military hydraulics, vintage posters, magazines and historic accessories all related to the lowrider scene.

Kustomized Bicycle Magazine travelled thirty-three miles north west of Denver for the opening extravaganza. Not only was the exhibit opening on September 17, 2016 but most of the lowriders from Longmont and surrounding cities ventured to the museum to put on a display surrounding the venue. There are over 200 lowrider styled cars in Longmont alone so we were expecting quite the show. A vast array of custom cars and bikes were on display outside. We spent the day walking through the exhibit, checking out the great cars and bicycles, talking with builders and eating Mexican food.

The Exhibit:

The museum staff had spent nearly two years putting the exhibit together and worked with several of the lowrider clubs in the surrounding areas. Inside the exhibit is a wall of car club plaques and the local clubs, several cars and trucks as well as a wall of lowrider bicycles. There were also displays featuring the history of lowriders in general as well as the local scene.

One of the coolest features was the length of a Lincoln Towncar assembled and hanging on a wall. The body shows all the points of making a lowrider starting with bare metal and ending with the completed custom paint job. In other rooms in the museum there were displays of a full hydraulic system, vintage care accessories and even original issues from the very first lowrider magazines. This exhibition will give visitors a behind-the-scenes view of how these rolling works of art are created. From pinstriping to upholstery, hydraulics to wheels, visitors will discover the varied skills needed to craft these machines.

If you are ever within range, we suggest you visit the exhibit and see some of the best lowriders Colorado has to offer. This is the first exhibit of its type in the state and we were very impressed with how well the whole thing was organized and assembled. Congratulations to the museum for creating such an excellent exhibit.

You can see this exhibit through May 14th, 2017.


Longmont Museum

400 Quail Rd, Longmont, CO 80501

(303) 651-8374

*sections of this feature were taken directly from the Longmont Museum Press Release