2016 was a rough year for many people. Though unemployment is down, the stock market is up and the streets are paved there has been too much turmoil in daily life. The cure for this is simple. In 2017, turn off the television and go ride a bike. I don’t care if it is a fixie, carbon fiber mountain bike or a unicycle. For me, a few friends on a long bike path with the stereo playing and my pack filled with tools, parts and a couple of beers makes for a great day. If one of your friends talks politics just punch him in the eye. Heck, make a “No Talking” ride. Just get out there.
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The really great thing about bicycles is that as long as you have two wheels, a crank and chain and a way to steer you have a bike you are pretty much ready to go. Compare the latest in carbon technology from last year’s Tour de France to a kid’s burrito bike down the street. They are very different in most aspects except having two wheels, a crank and chain and a way to steer. So fundamentally, they are the same.
When Joe Johnson wanted a cool custom bike of his own design, he made a wise choice by making a call to Chris Burke at CBurke Customs. Chris and Joe sat down and discussed design. I can’t really imagine how the conversation went. Maybe something like, “You want it to be a what?”. “An Anchor”. “Like a boat anchor?” so there it was. An anchor bike with all the maritime details that could be thrown in. As longs as all the fundamentals are there it should work.
Burke started with the most important part. He laid out the anchor design on a sheet of 3/16” mild steel and proceeded to cut the design out with the plasma cutter. Slots were cut into the anchor to fit the rear hub axle. A boxed rear section was fabricated to ensure the rear section was able to hold the bike and riders weight. After all, one of Joe’s orders was that this bike be a rider. The rest of the frame is round tube sent through the roller creating long and comfortable geometry. A mildly raked front fork and very low ground clearance sets off the chassis and shows it as a full custom. If you look carefully you can spy a built in chain tensioner tucked behind the drive side anchor.
Burke made sure to leave enough room between the top bar and mid bar to insert a tank. This tank consists of a nice steel insert with a port hole bolted to the middle held in place with brass nuts and bolts.
The drive train consists of a three-piece crank; sprocket and pedals all in flat back that makes its way to an extra wide rear hub via a brass colored chain…or should we say several chains. The wheel and tire combination is wide 26” flat black hoops, black spokes and nipples tied to the flat black hubs. This combination is then wrapped in a set of tan Boa-G tires that will not only roll like a dream but add some color to the mostly black machine. Nirve hand grips and seat are also in a brown color that match the tank insert perfectly.
Speaking of color: Once Buke was done with the days of welding and smoothing he sent all the pieces to Kustom Krafts of Sarasota. Once there everything was first sprayed with Hot Rod Flatz black urethane. Kustom Krafts then masked of the anchor area and sprayed it with several colors that not only set of the anchor pieces but also show it as being aged. They also sprayed the tank insert to make it the wood grained piece of art. Unless you actually put your hands on the tank you would be sure it is wood. They are that good and the spray. Components like the axle nuts, various bolts and the headlight were then sprayed in a brass color. No ship would be complete without a pile of brass accents.
Joe Johnson unveiled this work of art to Kustomized Bicycle Magazine for the photoshoot just hours before entering it into the OBC 2016 Bike Show in Las Vegas, Nevada. It ranked very well and ended up taking home one of the club pick trophies.
“Something that looks fast while sitting still” would be the proper answer for the question “In once sentence describe Smoopy’s Bicycle’s Schnot-Rod”.
As we all know, customizing is a pretty much “whatever you have laying around” kind of prospect. It really does not matter whether you have a Bridgeport and lathe in the shop or a bunch of bike parts and a pair of plyers on the kitchen floor in your apartment. Make it different and make it cool are the words to live by.
When Andrew Logan of famous Smoopy’s Bicycles decided he wanted to build something cool for himself after years of restoring others bicycles he went with what he knows. He started with your average 1978 Schwinn Cruiser frame and fork combination and put together one of the most basic yet super cool functional rider anyone could ask for.
A little creative cutting removed the rear axle mounts. After cutting a set of custom “Flame Job” units Andrew welded them into the rear triangle. This not only cleans up the rear section nicely, adds a ton of custom to this otherwise stock frame and drops the rear of the bike down several inches. Let’s face it….when you lower almost anything it is instantly cooler than before. When it comes to bikes, laying pedal is where you need to be.
The front forks are 1978 Schwinn Varsity models, which have a straight and spindly look to them; though we know vintage Schwinn parts were some of the strongest in the industry of their time. With a lot of help from a Park Tool fork straightening tool the fork bottoms were bent forward adding a dragster look while adding a little rake to the front end.
To help keep this Schnot-Rod steering in the right direction is a set of Soma Condorina bars that have a little café cut to them and a set of NOS white Schwinn Slimeline grips. All of this is attached to a Velo Orange stem, which is kept pretty fluid using a Tange headset. Sometimes just putting together the right parts is more than enough to make something awesome.
The drivetrain is full of “Go-Fast” vintage parts. The crank is a 1970’s Schwinn set with a Schwinn Stingray mag sprocket attached. The ends of each crank store is a Schwinn Bow pedal. A polished Shadow Conspiracy half-link chain surrounds the sprocket.
The wheel and tire combo really sets this machine off. The front wheel is a Schwinn 26” X 1-3/8” S-6 hoop with a polished late 1970’s Schwinn high flange road hub. This should keep the front end super light. The rear is a chrome plated 26” X 65mm hoop with a 1995 Schwinn Phantom scripted coaster hub wrapped in a 26” Thick Slick. When it comes to “Bigs and Littles”…this is dragster style.
Andrew finished off the bike by adding a 1995 Schwinn Phantom tank and a Schwinn Hollywood seat. Everything not polished was first shot in silver. Some panel taping was laid out and the whole thing was shot in yellow metal flake before some lime green was used to really set of the forty-year-old Schwinn frame, fork and tank.
If Andrew has taught us anything, it would be the following:
1. Custom is not what is built but how its built.
2. Sometimes less is more.
3. With the right parts and a lot of style you can have the coolest bike on the street.
The Bike Czar
Kustomized Bicycle Magazine has featured the top custom bicycle builders in the world over the last 18 issues. Their artistry unrivaled, their designs and quality unfathomable. But what if there was nowhere to ride? What if getting from point A to point b on two wheels was nearly a death sentence? What if bicycle were just…obsolete because of other transportation over running our space?
This could very possibly be one of the most important builder features we have ever written. Without builders like this then bicycles wouldn’t have the importance that they have today. You may roll tube and weld bottom bracket shells in but Haire designs and builds the bike plan that allows users to get to and fro without dying.
We first met Haire through a friend who lived in Dallas where Haire was well known in the Dallas City Hall as the Bike Czar. She is an Engineer, salesperson, designer, educator, and can build a bike. She worked for the Texas Department of Transportation and the City of Dallas, where she designed the routing and bike lanes to make Dallas a bike and pedestrian friendly city friendlier to bicyclists. She now works for Toole Design Group, a firm that is spreading her bicycle planning and design knowledge to cities all over the MidwestUS. We aren’t just talking someone sittingin an office highlighting possible routes on maps. And this isn’t just painting lines on the street like many cities do. These are buffered and protected lanes, off-street roadway paths, bike parking, bike education and bike sharing programs.
(KBM) What is your level of education and how did you get into the design and development of bike friendly cities?
Haire: I have bachelors, masters, and doctorate degrees in transportation engineering, mostly because I wanted to be a professor, but I found that academia was not a good fit for me. After graduate school, I moved to Portland for a faculty job, and although I’d done some research and design work in the past for bicycle transportation, things really clicked when I moved to Portland. It became a lifestyle for me—I was teaching bicycle and pedestrian design to undergraduate and graduate students in engineering and planning programs, riding absolutely everywhere, and working in a large non-profit bike shop learning to wrench. Everyone I knew rode a bike. The combination of those experiences gave me motivation and purpose in seeking to help other cities become as easy to navigate by bike as Portland is.
(KBM) You have been working in transportation for some time. What is are the usual bicycle needs you find walking into city hall of a mid-sized city in the mid-west for the first time?
Haire: Our company does bicycle planning and design for communities of all sizes, all over the country, and we find that the needs and challenges for bicycling tend to be very similar regardless of city size or location. Many cities want to see a measureable increase in the amount of bicycling in their community. However, as a country, we’ve lived in an auto-centric society for the last 70 years, and making a paradigm shift of that magnitude can be tough. In truth, it’s not practical to expect everyone to give up their car and switch to biking—we’ve built an entire way of life around automobiles, from land use, to highways, to the car culture that you see everywhere. That way of life represents a huge investment over time, but there are ways we can adapt the extensive automobile-focused infrastructure we’ve created to accommodate bicyclists in a safe way. Most utilitarian-style bicycle trips are five miles or less in length, so in most cities we focus on making these shorter trips easier to do by bike.
I think (and hope) we are on the cusp of a shift in how people view their transportation systems. Many people are moving back into center cities and learning how fulfilling it can be to spend more of their day living and less time driving. There is greater acceptance of bicycling as a way to get around, and we’re seeing amenities like bike parking pop up in places that you wouldn’t have expected it a few years ago. There are still struggles over things like tradeoffs between bike lanes and on-street parking, but we’re developing new designs that can accommodate both, or seeing greater support from public decision-makers (like elected officials) to prioritize bicycling and walking over driving.
(KBM) We all hear about the friendliest bicycle cities in the country, but bicycle commuters have to deal with the negativity, so what does being known as a “friendly bike city” actually entail?
Haire: I think bicyclists have to deal with flak from motorists everywhere in the US. Being considered a “bike-friendly city” is partly related to that flak and how pervasive it is, but the term is largely tied to city policies and programs to promote and support bicycling, and how much quality bike infrastructure is present. The most bike-friendly cities have ample trails and on-street bike lanes, but they also have organized events for bicycle riders, bicycle education in schools, bike-friendly business programs, etc. The League of American Bicyclists (LAB, http://www.bikeleague.org/) manages an evaluation program that cities can apply to in order to be certified as “bike friendly”. The LAB has a hierarchy of award classifications, depending on how many of the qualifying bike-friendly criteria the applying city achieves (http://www.bikeleague.org/community).
(KBM) What is the biggest obstacle you see in the majority of the cities you have worked in?
Haire: There are a few recurring challenges that immediately come to mind, and to some extent they go hand-in-hand. Cities have limited resources in terms of their ability to finance new bicycle facilities and maintain the ones they have. The safest kinds of bike facilities, that anyone would feel comfortable using, are usually the most expensive to design and build. Trails, sidepaths, and protected bike lanes fall into this category. If a city can find adequate resources to implement one of these top-notch facilities, it is often at the expense of providing more miles of lower-comfort bike facilities throughout their city. So the situation becomes a prioritization and balancing act of creating fewer high-quality bike accommodations versus more lower-cost options like striped bike lanes.
Related to city resources and funding is the question of public support. The majority of people in any given city do not ride bicycles, and while they may think more bike facilities are a good idea in concept, there can be less support for them when it comes to looking at tradeoffs like removing on-street parking or financing a new trail. Bicycle ridership has been growing nationally for years, and I think as more communities see ridership grow, there will be greater public support for creating funding mechanisms to allocate resources to bike facilities.
(KBM) Bicycle friendly transportation systems aren’t just painting paths onto existing streets. What are the parts of a city wide system and how do they work together?
Haire: When we look at bicycle networks, we have to consider all the pieces. There are a few concepts we use in the industry to create safer and more extensive systems. The first of these concepts is the notion of personal comfort. Many of us have ridden for years and don’t mind riding in a bike lane next to traffic, or even in a traffic lane with cars. However, there are a lot of people who would LIKE to bicycle but they are not at all comfortable riding with traffic, even in a bike lane. We estimate that this group (we call them the “Interested but Concerned” demographic) makes up about 60% of the population in a typical city. Imagine how many more people would ride bicycles if that 60% were out on their bikes! When we design bike lanes, we try to design facilities that would feel comfortable to not just those of us that already ride, but also to that 60% of the population that is not riding today. The most stressful part of biking is dealing with motor vehicle traffic, so the idea is to minimize the stress a bicyclist feels when riding on a particular bike facility. Often, that means having some type of physical buffer or barrier between bikes and cars, so you see a lot of cities adding to their trail networks, and gradually getting on board with building curbs or installing posts between bike lanes and travel lanes. When we can design and implement a bike facility that has this separation, or is located on a low-speed, low-volume street, we call that a “low-stress” design.
Another big focus when we plan and design bike networks is to provide seamless connections between low-stress facilities. It’s great to have a curb-separated bike lane, but if it doesn’t connect to another low-stress facility, it’s not going to get as much use. We look for ways to link low-stress bike facilities to each other so that riders can get to their destinations without encountering stressful traffic situations. The downside to these low-stress designs (particularly trails and curb-separated bike lanes) is that they can be very expensive to build, so we generally want to recommend investments in these types of bike accommodations in places where they will see substantial ridership.
(KBM) Are there nonprofits that are actually helping push bicycle rights and transportation efforts that can really use public’s help?
Haire: People for Bikes (http://www.peopleforbikes.org/) is a group that is very involved in advocacy efforts and research. The League of American Bicyclists (http://www.bikeleague.org/) is another. One of the biggest things you can do to make a difference locally is be engaged with bicycling advocacy programs in your own city—if there is no active group in your community, start one! The larger organizations are great, and they create a lot of change at the national level, but sometimes the most visible progress we can make for bicycling and safer streets is right in our own community.
(KBM) What do you ride and how often do you ride?
Haire: I have six bikes, most of which I built or restored myself. My favorite is my 1970’s Schwinn Paramount (the model with the chrome lugs). In warmer months, I bike commute every day on the Cherry Creek Trail to downtown Denver for work. I built what was supposed to be my “beater bike” from a 1980’s Trek, but with all the parts I’ve swapped out on it, building the wheel set, and so forth, it’s probably worth as much as the others at this point. I like to pretend I would be less sad if it were stolen (compared to my other bikes), but that’s probably not true.
(KBM) As bicycle riders, commuters and people really into the bicycle “scene”, what can we do to engage with city government to push bicycle routing and safety as an important issue?
Haire: The biggest thing you can do is be engaged! Call or talk to your city councilmember, let them know how important bicycling and safe streets are to you. Mass emails to elected officials have less impact than one-on-one conversations with them, especially if you are one of their direct constituents. Also, when you hear about a public meeting for a project that includes or is focused on bicycle facilities, go to the meeting and let your voice be heard! Even if bike facilities are only a small part of the project, your voice matters in making things happen. I’ve seen many bike-focused projects die and bicycle accommodations removed from larger roadway projects because no one from the bicycle community showed up in support. You may think that because bike facilities are such a great idea, it would be logical to move forward with any project that includes them, but in reality, resources are limited and if no one shows up in support (or lots of people show up in opposition), bicycle facilities can be among the first pieces to get cut out of project budgets. Be vocal, be engaged, and show up if you want to see things change!
(KBM) Where can readers interested in city bicycle reform go to be informed, learn about new plans and keep track of how the systems are growing around the country?
Haire: One of my favorite resources to keep tabs on bike-related goings-on across the US is Streetsblog. They track the happenings for bicycle, pedestrian, and transit developments, as well as safer streets information and broader topics like transportation-related politics, urban design, and mobility. Streetsblog also has dedicated pages for several larger cities or regions, too, where they post articles about the latest developments on a more local level. They link to other news sources where you can learn more about their content, and I have found them to be a valuable resource for staying in the loop!
1933-36 ford led tail light conversion
Last month (January 2017) we reviewed No School Choppers hand poured resin lenses that fit the 1933-36 Ford car tail lights. These two pieces together is a cool assembly that not only functions but also give your custom ride a little bling. We promised that we would show you how to use these lenses and tail lights as a bicycle tail light. This is a simple way to have a cool tail light on your ride that not everyone else has. Custom is all about being cool after all.
A tail light will keep you visible during those night rides so the brighter the better. Most states have laws regarding the need of lights after dark. We choose to go with the Speedway Motors P/N 91137028 tail light assembly. This including a polished stainless steel housing, lens, bezel, gaskets and LED pod. You will have 19 super bright red LEDs that is part of an epoxy coated fully sealed solid state electronic circuit board (great for the rain filled rides). The driver’s side (left side) also includes a 5 LED white license plate light that will light up whatever is under it. One thing that we really like about these LEDs is when your battery voltage drops the outside ring of LEDs will no longer work. The battery just doesn’t have the juice to power all the LEDs. When this happens just do a battery change and it will be as good as new.
We use soldered connections for all electrical feeds. Soldering is a mechanical joint that when done properly takes up less space and is less prone to failure. It is much easier to pull apart a crimped connection than it is a properly soldered connection. If you are unsure of proper soldering methods you can hit up YouTube for some How-To videos or there may be a tech feature on soldering soon in Kustomized Bicycle Magazine.
Mounting the light to your bike is up to you. The two 7/16 nut / bolt / washer assemblies are used for this. If you choose to do the mounting a different way, then remove those items along with lines 3 and 4 from this instruction.
1 No School Choppers 1933-36 Tail Light Lens
1 Speedway Motors P/N 91137028 Drivers Side 1933-36 Ford Tail Light
1 Single Throw Toggle Switch
1 9 volt battery connector
1 9 volt battery
2 7/16” 1”long bolts w/ matching nuts and lock washers
Drill motor with 7/16” & 5/8” bit, Soldering Iron, Silver Lead Free Solder, 10 ga. Heat shrink,
Flat Screw driver.
The ability to spot weld will make your assembly easier to use.
(Please read all instructions before you start. There is a specific way to wire the LEDs that will keep the 9 volt battery from overheating which will shorten its life and possibly destroy the solid state circuit board).
1. Disassemble your tail light by removing the two lens screws with a flat head screwdriver. Remove the lens, bezel and LED board from the housing.
2. Using the drill motor and 5/8” bit, drill out the small center hole on the back of the light housing that the wires were fed through. This hole will fit the toggle switch.
3. Drill out the two holes next to the center hole larger using the drill motor and the 7/16” bit.
4. Thread the nut / bolt / washer assembly into the two 7/16” holes you just enlarged with the nut on the inside of the housing. There is no need to use the washers at this point. Once the nuts and bolts are hand tight spot weld the edge of the nut to the housing. The housing is thin stainless so a quick small tack would be best. These two nut assemblies will be used to mount the light to your bike however works best for your application.
5. Strip all wires ½” from the cut end.
6. Wire the assembly together. Do this without soldering for now to make sure your light works. Be careful which wires you connect and double check your wiring before you connect the battery. The LED colored wires are for the following: BLACK – Tail light, RED – Stop/Turn, WHITE – Ground. To get the maximum light from the LEDs we chose to wire the Black and Red wire to power. We use the toggle switch to turn on and off Ground.
7. Test the wiring by hooking up the battery to the 9 volt connection. Make sure no bare wire is touching another bare wire except where the connections should be.
8. Solder each connection together. Remember to slide the heat shrink onto one side of the wire before soldering.
9. Heat the heat shrink until it encases the soldered joint.
10. Remove the toggle switch nut and on / off tag. Push the switch’s threaded end through the 5/8 hole from #2 of these instructions. Replace the tag and nut. We prefer to have the toggle in the off position facing down. Once the switch is oriented correctly tighten the nut until hand tight.
11. Install the battery onto the connector and push the battery and wiring into the light housing.
12. Place the cork gasket onto the back of the No School Chopper lens. Place the lens and gasket onto the housing. Using the original light bezel and two screws, reassemble the light.
13. Remove the 7/16” bolts from the rear of the light, place the lock washers on the bolts, and reassemble. (We bet you thought we forgot about those didn’t you.)
Well, there you have it. Just figure out a way to mount the light to your bike using the two 7/16” bolts and you are good to go on that moonlight ride.
Jing Yi Speedometer
Having a muscle bike fetish is one thing. Having a muscle bike accessory fetish is probably more time consuming and harder on the wallet. I was going through a large box of vintage speedometers I realized several things. The first is that I may have a speedometer problem. Secondly is that I have a lot of speedometer heads but am greatly lacking in the rest of the pieces.
I proceeded to my favorite online retailer and found a speedo unit for very cheap. Cheap enough that though the head looked pretty generic I could really use some new cables and handle bar mounts. Looking at the pictures online the purchase looked promising as all the components looked like the vintage models I am so accustom to. I purchased a single Jing Yi unit and waited to see what would come in the mail.
My favorite guy wearing all brown dropped off a package a few days later. In the shop, I opened the box and found…..a speedometer.
Instantly I started thinking that my purchase may have been a bust. The head doesn’t nearly have the style that the originals have. For some reason, there was a “kMh” where the “Mph” should have been. D’oh. I didn’t notice that in the online pictures. Putting this speedo on a restored American muscle bike would be laughable as it measures distance in metric rather than American standard. Otherwise the head seems solid though significantly lighter than the vintage Stewart Warner I was weighing it against. It is 3/8” taller than the SW head and the tapped male connector on the back of the head is ¼” taller than the SW model. The Male connector is also a different smaller thread size than the original. This is turning bad very quickly. With the different size and thread count I now know that the cable isn’t going to fit the vintage models.
“In for a penny, in for a pound” they say so I kept going through the components. The cable is a much smaller diameter than original cables. As mentioned above, the connections are not the same size as the vintage models.
The drive gear is probably the most worthless piece in the box. The plastic house is molded around a “bronze” bushing then the drive gear is pressed in place with the black plastic round piece. There is no real structure for it to fit against so it just flops around. I popped off the plastic cap off the male end. the black plastic internal worm gear fell out of the housing. Not only are the drive parts all plastic but there was no lube on the gears. Knowing that not all plastics are created equal we realized that this in a hard fragile plastic instead of a nylon type that would actually hold up. If this unit worked at all, it most likely would have locked up the plastic gears and destroyed itself within the first block or so.
I had one last hope from this entire fiasco. The handle bar mount should be ok. It is a stamped piece of metal. How bad could it be? Well Yes, it is a stamped piece of metal but it is out of 20 ga. sheet. The mount is extremely flimsy and one would be lucky to bare the weight of the speedo head. Notice the spots on the back side of the mount. That is rust stating to pit the sheet metal. It must have been a pretty slow boat or a humid cargo container to get the rust to show through fresh from the box.
Watch the slide show below that shows the comparison pictures between the vintage speedometer parts vs. the Jing Yi Speedometer
So I assembled all the parts and decided to give it a spin so at least the speedo head could be proven as useful. The needle never moved and after about 15 seconds a crunchy noise emanated from the gear drive. Pulling the drive apart again I pulled out the worm gear that showed it was now missing several teeth. Catastrophic failure.
All in all the Jing Yi Speedometer is a pretty tragic hunk of excrement. After writing this article I threw the entire package into the waste can. The parts are visibly cheap and poorly built from even poorer materials. Only use this if you have a show bike that never moves and can only be viewed from 50 yards away.
DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT purchase this for any reason. I would rather send the money to an anti-biking support group than purchase this item. Well, maybe not an anti-biking support group.
PARK Toolts-4 truing stand
We have covered several truing stands and their uses in the last year or two of Kustomized Bicycle Magazine. They rate highly on the “must have” list for hardcore bike builders. But there has been a problem that we have brought up in our last truing stand review. The new style of tall and wide hoops does not fit any truing stand. So If you are running those 29 or even 32 diameter hoops with 80mm, 100mm or even the 135mm hoops you are out of luck.
Luckily we got a sneak peek of the 2017 Park Tool lineup a few weeks ago. It was like Park Tool was reading Kustomized Bicycle Magazine because they came up with a response to all our reviews. Maybe they were…..The Park Tool TS-4 Truing Stand will be out this season and it guarantees to fit those larger wheels. The arms have enough length to fit 29”+ wheel diameters. The arms also span out to accommodate up to 215mm axle widths. This means those 100mm and 135mm wheels can now be trued without the need for cobbled together truing devices. Of course they also designed the new stand to fit their dial indicator and their rotor gauge.
- Both uprights move simultaneously to always keep wheel centered in the stand.
- Accommodates axle widths from 75mm to 215mm
- Direct action caliper arm adjusts to work with wheel sizes from 16" to 29"+
- Accommodates tire widths up to 5" with or without brake rotor mounted
- Machined, welded, assembled and calibrated in our factory in St. Paul, MN
- Precise accuracy, operation and adjustability
- Built in thru-axle adaptors
- Chrome plated and powder coated heavy gauge steel construction
- Removable, replaceable nylon caliper tips to protect painted/anodized rims
- Dial Indicator compatible (TS-2Di)
- Rotor gauge compatible (DT-3 & DT-3i.2)
Pricing and actual ship dates have not been released at the time of this article.
Specialized Tube Spool
The Specialized Tube Spool came out mid-year last year but for some reason they did not really do a marketing campaign for it. It really is a neat plastic holder design that has all the items needed to fix your flat in a condensed package. The design allows a spare tube with up to an 80mm valve stem that can be tightly rolled without damage to the valve stem, 16g CO2 cartridge, CO2 valve head and Specialized Swat tire levers. The system is made for either mountain or road bikes but the average cruiser tube has more than enough space.
All the items can be clicked into or wrapped around the plastic Specialized Tube Spool and is held together with a velcro strap. It all can easily fit wherever you put a spare inner tube.
Simply the CO2 canister is snapped into the bottom of the holder, the SWAT levers mount to the top of the holder, the CO2 valve head is inserted sideways on the back of the assembly. The tube is then wrapped around the system by first placing the valve into the assembly, wrap the tube around the assembly then use the velcro strap to tie it all together.
- Patent-pending design allows the spare tube to be rolled up while protecting valve stem from rubbing a hole through the rubber.
- CO2 valve head and two-sided tire lever snap into place for compact and secure storage.
- Holds a single threaded 16g CO2 cartridge.
- Fits up to 80 mm long tube valve stems.
For the small price of $20.00 this well designed system can be taking up a minimal amount of space in your pack while still having all the parts and tools to keep you rolling.