Gut Punch

It has been a long road with the Kustomized Bicycle Magazine Build-up bike called the “Gut Punch”. There has been a lot of waiting for suppliers to come up with the parts we wanted, waiting for a custom mix of color to powder coat the bike with, and waiting for us and our full time jobs, families, and magazine publishing to set aside the time to actually be in the shop building. You will notice a lot of the product reviews were done on parts that eventually made it to this bike. A few of the tech articles were also written during the building of this bike.
“Because we love our readers and they want hands-on reviews of actual parts we use, that’s why” – said the editor when parts started rolling into Kustomized Bicycle Magazine headquarters last year. We really think he was hiding them from his wife.


Aaron Hoffmeyer is the Editor of Kustomized Bicycle Magazine and has built many frame up bikes in the past. The initial design of this bike inspired by a bike he viewed at OBC 2015 that was built by the great Alejandro's Garage. Aaron really liked the high top tube that came to a sudden stop where the down tube meets it. With that in mind he started designing the bike in AutoCAD using standard measurements taken from the Dyno Roadster we have sitting in the Kustomized Bicycle Magazine office. Things then went a little haywire as he stretched it a little here and there and lowered the seat placement. Once the design was complete on the CAD station is was printed out full size. Aaron and his good friend T.J. decided that T.J's shop had the room needed to build another bike so Aaron picked up the square tube needed and took everything to T.J.s.  For the next few months they would get together a night or two a week and keep cutting and welding until the new bike was a full roller. Aaron is not saying that there weren’t some trial and error working with the square tube and it caused more than a few WTF moments but in all everyone involved agreed that it turned out great.
The frame is made of 0.065 thick 1.25" square tube rolled using Swag Offroad's roller dies (July 2015 KBM Review). The frame mechanics were completed by adding a Solid Bikes bottom bracket shell and head tube (Aug. 2015 Review). It was all supported and welded in place using the frame jig from the magazine’s tech article back from June 2015.


Once the frame was complete Aaron called Cuda Custom Cycle for a set of their square tube triple trees. Aaron and T.J. cut the tubes and dropouts and welded up he fork (Sept. 2015 How To). To finish off the fork Aaron sat in front of the polisher for several hours and gave the raw aluminum triple trees a jewel like glow (Nov 2015 How To).
Attached to the front fork is a 4130 Chromoly Steer tube 1 1/8”X.065 head tube topped with a Primo Integrated Headset in Oil Slick and a Salt AM Stem Top Load also in Oil Slick. Nestled within the confines of the stem is a custom set of handle bars designed and fabricated by Aaron. The handle bars are complete with a set of Vans Cult flangeless grips and capped with Snafu Stubby Bar End Plugs in Oil Slick (Feb. 2016 Review).


The drivetrain consists of a Colony 19mm Mid Bottom Bracket in Oil Slick (April 2016 Review) hooked to Mission Transit 175 mm cranks (Oct. 2015 Review). Aaron found an AFR front sprocket at a swap meet for five dollars. It came with a black oxide coating that Aaron ground off before polishing the sprocket front and back. Threaded into the end of the cranks are a set of AEST Magnesium Body pedals with Titanium Axles finished with an Oil Slick Coating. To keep the rotational motion going to the rear two KMC Z510HX Chain in Oil Slick were put together and wrapped from sprocket to cog. To keep the chain tight over such a length and to keep it from bouncing into the frame a small standoff was welded in and a Jockey Purple Anodized 11 tooth Chain Guide was added.


The 29" X 80mm aluminum polished hoops were purchased from The Cruiser Shop and built using a Primo Jet front hub and a Shimano Nexus SG-3C41 3 speed rear hub with a 22 tooth sprocket. The wheels were assembled and trued using polished HD spokes then wrapped with a set of Freedom Thick Slick 29" x 2" tires (Dec. 2015 Review).


To change the gears on the Shimano 3 speed a handle bar shifter was out of the question. The stick shift was designed and built by Aaron (March 2016 How To). The frame was drilled and the shifter cable was ran through the tube hiding it from view and keeping it out of the way.
For some comfort on the cruise (and the first item purchased for this build) is a Purple Zodiac solo seat made by Bitwell that Aaron had been eyeing in the local motorcycle shop for a few years. For some reason it never sold and Aaron was able to score it at a nicely discounted price just so they could get it off the wall.


Before final assembly, the frame, handle bars, fork legs and cranks were sent to Applied Plastic Coating in Arvada, Colorado where they were basted and baked first in a silver microflake base then a Radberry Purple translucent for color. In direct light it looks like a candy pink but in the shade the frame looks to be a candy purple. Applied Plastics did an outstanding job mostly when this color combination had never been tried before. In the end it matched the seat perfectly.
If you want to see this bicycle up close or just stop in and say hi. It will be on display at the OBC bicycle show on April 24th, 2016 at the Kustomized Bicycle Magazine booth.
 

the tank


 
When Joe Luis of Fremont California showed up on the scene one night with his bike “Tank” it was like dropping a box of pencils in the SAT testing auditorium. Crowd Pleaser and Show Stopper would be pretty well thought adjectives to describe this bicycle. The best thing about Joe’s ride is that when the night’s crowd started the ride Joe was in the pack pedaling in comfort. This isn’t some show queen bike that gets trucked to the ride then loaded up again for the ride home.
Kustomized Bicycle Magazine doesn’t purposefully follow around certain builders. There are just some builders that fab some of the best bikes around and keep hitting the winning nail head over and over. These are also the bikes that backyard builders dream about at night.
THE PLAN: First get one of the best designers to plan the build out then call in one of the best builders to start rolling tube and gluing steel together with fire. Start finding all the parts you want to use and someone who can paint and mill to the plan’s specs.
When Joe wanted a full on custom ride he got with Rob Simao of the Kruz3r Mob (who has had two past featured bikes in Kustomized Bicycle Magazine). After some back and forth a design was plotted out and sent to builder Gary Sheron (also with several featured bikes under his belt) of Lowlife Bikes in Florida. Gary started chopping and grinding like the madman he is until the design was complete. Square tube was rolled with a series of arcs that complement each other. Several of the arcs flow from one radius to another that creates a beautiful jungle gym of a frame. The rear section also has some complex curves and were rolled from smaller square tube with enough room to fit the polished 26”X4” hoops. The main frame was completed with a tank type insert welded in with a series of speed holes drilled through it. All the joints were carefully prepped, welded and smoothed to absolute perfection. The most radical area of the frame is where four different tubes are welded to the bottom bracket shell making it look like a kaleidoscope when the cranks are in motion.
 

IMG_1917.JPG

 

Up front is a leaf spring fork skillfully designed from square tube. The front section of the fork has a demon quality to it with two horns protruding from the spring mount. The square tube legs match the rest of the bike and stop at sharp points where they meet with the lower rockers. Everything is buttoned up with polished acorn nuts.
 

 

On top the custom square tube double Z bars also have multiple curves that leave the grips in a very comfortable angle. With the zero offset polished neck it puts them in the perfect place with enough room to keep the show piece front fork visible to the world.
The drive train consists of a sealed bottom bracket and polished three piece cranks topped with pedals painted to match the frame. The super long chain attaches to the multi-geared rear hub controlled by a polished aluminum shifter mounted on the top right chain stay. Rolling stock is 26”x4” polished aluminum hoops with polished spokes capped with pure black brick styled tires that keep the vintage feel of the bike. Also keeping with the vintage feel is the leather sprung seat.
 

 

Once the frame and forks were complete it was shipped off to Kreative Airbrush Design where Troy Keough worked his magic with the spray gun and brushes. Everything was coated in coating of pure white paint with multiple layers of clear sprayed over the top. The pictures don’t do this bike justice. It is literally eye burning in direct sunlight. Troy went to a very special place when he started laying on the one-shot. Nearly every tube has been touched by the squirrel hair brush. You can even see pin striping on the bottom side off the bottom tube so even if this bike is upside down it would look just as good as right side up.
 

 

If you ever get a chance to ride with the Kruz3r Mob in the San Francisco and surrounding areas you should do it. The whole group has killer bikes and are the nicest people. All their builds are top notch and the creativity and build process is a group effort. In this build the custom aluminum parts were made by Ray Cruiser of the Kruz3r. The Mob puts on rides in their area and can be found on Facebook.

TSP CYCLE FARM

TSP CycleFarm runner Luca De Luretis knows thing on two wheels. The CycleFarm is a subsidiary of TSPMoto which is one of the first companies born in Italy in charge of marketing of spare parts for motorcycles and scooter. Motorcycles and scooters are much more popular in Europe than here in the states so working in the both the OEM and aftermarket side of this genre of vehicle can be a good business. But if someone was in love with bicycles but stuck in the motorized world what would they do? Luca De Luretis created TSP CycleFarm to keep his bicycle fix in play. Luca and his mates are genuine top notch fabricators and the quality of their items are unparalleled. Kustomized Bicycle Magazine handed Luca the standard builder’s questions to get a sneak peek with TSP Cycle Farm and inside Luca’s mind.
Note that Luca speaks Italian and Kustomized Bicycle Magazine is in English so we had to translate our conversations.

 

(KBM): When did your shop form and what is your background pertaining to fabrication and design?

(Luca de Luretis): At TSP Moto we are motorcycle frames manufacturers and fabricators since the 2001. We are TIG welders and custom motorbike designers by trade. We created the TSP CycleFarm two years ago because of our love of bicycles and we wanted to enter the bicycle market with our designs.

 

(KBM): What is your favorite bicycle you have built to date?

(Luca de Luretis): I like all bicycles that we have built! We love all the models we build!
My personal bicycle is a fat road that you can find on our website. It is the first Wave that I made, after designing the Wave frame for the commercial line.

 

(KBM): With the explosion of the custom bicycle world in the last few years where do you see this scene going?
(Luca de Luretis): I'm very satisfied about our work and about the great success in this market. I think that in the next few years the custom bicycle's market will be bigger than now and I hope that our models will be the favorite of customers around the world.

 

(KBM): If someone hasn’t seen TSP CycleFarm bicycle how would you describe its style?
(Luca de Luretis): I have only one reply for you. Our bicycles and our frame represent our interpretation of custom bicycle. The style is a personal interpretation of them!

 

(KBM): Is your shop a one stop shop? Do you build custom bicycles that are ready to ride or a series of pieces that can be purchased together?
(Luca de Luretis): We are manufactures of parts for bicycles (frames forks etc.) and a reseller of some bicycles parts. We created our brand and we do not have a physical bicycle shop (only a work shop and storage). We sell generic bicycles parts on the internet or if the customers want a complete bicycle we can build one for them but our principal market is to sell parts.

 

(KBM): What is your favorite style of bike to build: chopper, bobber, stretched cruiser?
(Luca de Luretis): Personally I like chopper bikes!

 

(KBM): When not in the shop building bicycles what do you spend your time doing?
(Luca de Luretis): Oh! My favorite hobby is to ride motorcycles! I'm a professional stunt rider with Harley Davidson Motorcycles.

 

(KBM): What is your favorite tool in the shop and what is usually playing on the stereo?
(Luca de Luretis): My favorite tool is the TIG welding machine, we usually playing radio in our workshop but we have no favorite song or groups just generically Italian singers...

 

(KBM): If a person hasn’t had access to the settings, tools, and skills like welding, fabrication, paint, etc. What is a good first step to take in learning what it takes to build a project bicycle?

 

(Luca de Luretis): If bicycle frame building is too difficult for them, the first step that we can advise them is to begin to assemble with finished parts and hand tools. After that they can go step by step and proceed with more difficult works projects. With passion and time all people will able to make all type of work!

 

(KBM): What is next for your shop? Upcoming projects, lines of parts?

(Luca de Luretis): We are designing new frames and parts. We want to create a very big catalogue of our hand made products to offer our customers with various things and items to choose for their projects!!!

 


Best Regards,
Luca De Luretis
To find the best offers visit our website:
www.tspmoto.it

LED LIGHT CONVERSION FOR $25.00

So you want to look old school without the issues of being old school? You want to be safe and legal while riding your bicycle and not got harassed by the man? You’re not willing to bolt on into the KBM lab to help you remedy this situation.
Let’slights that ruin the flow of your ride? Kustomized Bicycle Magazine is right there with you. So we headsay you found a really cool head light that you want to run on your bike. Unfortunately this headlight assembly is a vintage model that has an incandescent bulb that would require either a 6 or 12 volt power supply to work. You can run a large battery pack to do the job but bulbs suck a lot of power and you will be swapping batteries as quickly as you can ride. You could run a bicycle generator to power the lighting but they have never worked all that great and require mounting, running wires and generally are more of a maintenance problem than a reliable source of power.
So what is a guy to do? LED is the answer. An LED is a Light-Emitting Diode which is a semiconductor diode that emits light when conducting current. LED lights has taken over the lighting market in the last decade or two by storm and is now the most popular way to light everything from vehicles to building.
Why LED? There are several reasons LEDs has taken over the market and why you should run one on your bike.
Bulb Life: Incandescent bulbs have a fragile filament inside the bulb. One good hit and the filament could break leaving you lightless. LEDs are virtually indestructible and will likely never stop working due to mild abuse.
Brightness: LEDs emit much more light now days than incandescent bulbs. They can come in different colors, brightness and with the right housing the light beam can be focused.
Battery Life: The current draw to power LEDs is much less than an incandescent bulb. LEDs can run on a single battery (100s of hours usually) where an incandescent bulb will start to fade after a few hours of usage.
Ease of containment: LEDs are easy to wire and are compact. You simply need a switch, battery and LED light.
The Swap
We are going to convert a Sport Deluxe 5” X 2 ½” rectangular headlight straight out of the 70’s for a muscle bike project we have going. Originally these lights were set up with a generator and external switch. Inside there is just enough room to run a stout LED puck, battery and switch. Also, we are going to do this whole LED conversion for less than $25.00. We have done this conversion on several different light models from an Italian moped headlight (which looked great with a S&W round speedometer tunneled into the top), Ford Model A tail lights, Ford mid 30’s tail lights, and even a cowl light from a late 20’s Peirce Arrow (we didn’t know what it was until after the toggle switch hole was drilled…..huge mistake there).
Items needed:
70’s Sport Deluxe 5” X 2 ½” Rectangular Headlight (swap meet find) $5.00
Gordon 3 ¾” 32 LED Flashlight (Harbor Freight Part No. 98504) $5.99 or $3.99 on sale.
Dorman Pre-Wired Toggle Switch (Autozone Part No. 85982 or EL-10054) $4.99.
9Volt Battery Contacts (Mouser Electronics Part. No. 534-235) $0.77.
1 foot black 14 ga. insulated copper wire (6" red and 6" black) $.08 approx.
9 Volt battery. $2.99
3 14-18 ga. electrical butt connectors $0.29 approx.
Sticky Backed Hook and Loop Fastener (Velcro) $1.99
Tube of Silicon Caulk (local hardware or automotive store) $1.99

 

Doing Work
The first step of this project is to get the 32 LED puck out of the flashlight. Simply unscrew the head of the flashlight and remove the LED puck and its silver reflector from the bezel and lens assembly.
Set the LED puck and reflector in a safe place. The remaining parts will not be used. Gently remove the reflector from the puck and apply 2-3 small dabs of silicon to the face of the LED puck around the edges. Place the reflector back onto the puck and gently squeeze them together. Set the assembly to the side so the silicon can cure. (This is to keep the reflector in place in the future as they have a tendency to rattle around and eventually fall off.)

 

Disassemble the Sports Deluxe light completely.
Remove the insulated screw power wire assembly and copper conductor in the lower left hand of the light housing. These items will not be reused.

 

Strip the ends of the red and black wire approximately 3/8". Solder one end of the 14 ga. red wire to the center spring lead of the LED puck. Solder one end of the 14 ga. black wire to the outside ground lead of the LED puck. I cover the solder when cooled with silicon and let cure. Silicon keeps oxidation from breaking down the solder over time.

 

Find a location to mount the toggle switch. Using a 1/2" frill bit drill a hole through the housing and install the switch.
Put a few dabs of silicon on the back side of the LED puck around the outside edge. Feed the red and black wire through the center Sports Deluxe light reflector from the reflective side. Center the LED puck and press it against the Sport Deluxe reflector then set aside to let the silicone cure. The silicon is being used as an adhesive to hold the LED puck to the reflector.
Using a butt connector join the red wire from the LED puck to the red wire on the 9 volt battery contact assembly.
Now is a good time to see what the toggle switch is set to. Strip the ends off the black wire of the toggle switch and twist the end of the wire from the LED puck to one of the wires of the toggle switch. Twist the other wire of the toggle switch to the black wire of the 9 volt battery connector. Plug in the 9 volt battery connector to the 9 volt battery. If the LED puck lights up then check to see what side the On/Off tag is on the toggle switch. If the toggle switch is in the On position move to the next step. If it is in the Off position then reverse the wires on the toggle switch and recheck.
Using a butt connector join the wire from the LED puck to the wire to the toggle switch. Using the last butt connector join the other wire from the toggle switch to the 9 volt battery connector.

 

After cutting to size, remove the adhesive backing from one side of the Velcro and place it on the 9 volt battery. Remove the adhesive backing from the other side of the Velcro on place the battery in a fitting location on the inside of the Sports Deluxe Housing. (Check this position BEFORE permanently mounting the battery by placing the battery in the housing after the toggle switch has been installed then placing the Sports Deluxe light reflector into the housing to make sure it fits properly.)
Reassemble the Sport Deluxe light and mount it to the desired location.

It is OBC time again. Kustomized Bicycle Magazine will once again be traveling to Las Vegas for a few days of riding, meeting with builders, doing more photoshoots than we can count and have a generally fun time with a mass of like-minded people. We are looking forward to seeing old friends and meeting new ones. We will have a table at the OBC Bike Show so feel free to stop in and say hello. We should have some swag available for sale and some for free. We will also have the Kustomized Bicycle Magazine build, this month’s feature bike, that you have been watching being built through the parts features and tech articles for the last many months.
Speaking of tech articles. This month’s Tech feature is converting a standard light to an LED light. Lights are mandatory on bikes between dusk and dawn.  The following is an excerpt from the Colorado Revised Statutes pertaining to bicycles and electric vehicles:
42-4-221. Bicycle and personal mobility device equipment
No other provision of this part 2 and no provision of part 3 of this article shall apply to a bicycle, electrical assisted bicycle, or EPAMD or to equipment for use on a bicycle, electrical assisted bicycle, or EPAMD except those provisions in this article made specifically applicable to such a vehicle.
Every bicycle, electrical assisted bicycle, or EPAMD in use at the times described in section 42-4-204 shall be equipped with a lamp on the front emitting a white light visible from a distance of at least five hundred feet to the front.
Every bicycle, electrical assisted bicycle, or EPAMD shall be equipped with a red reflector of a type approved by the department, which shall be visible for six hundred feet to the rear when directly in front of lawful lower beams of head lamps on a motor vehicle.
Every bicycle, electrical assisted bicycle, or EPAMD when in use at the times described in section 42-4-204 shall be equipped with reflective material of sufficient size and reflectivity to be visible from both sides for six hundred feet when directly in front of lawful lower beams of head lamps on a motor vehicle or, in lieu of such reflective material, with a lighted lamp visible from both sides from a distance of at least five hundred feet.
A bicycle, electrical assisted bicycle, or EPAMD or its rider may be equipped with lights or reflectors in addition to those required by subsections (2) to (4) of this section.
A bicycle or electrical assisted bicycle shall not be equipped with, nor shall any person use upon a bicycle or electrical assisted bicycle, any siren or whistle.
Every bicycle or electrical assisted bicycle shall be equipped with a brake or brakes that will enable its rider to stop the bicycle or electrical assisted bicycle within twenty-five feet from a speed of ten miles per hour on dry, level, clean pavement.
A person engaged in the business of selling bicycles or electrical assisted bicycles at retail shall not sell any bicycle or electrical assisted bicycle unless the bicycle or electrical assisted bicycle has an identifying number permanently stamped or cast on its frame.
Any person who violates any provision of this section commits a class B traffic infraction.
 

Which Lube is for you?

We put a ton of time and money into our bikes. Not only do we need them to look great but we need them to ride well and stay rolling even when the glam is gone and we are just trying to run errands or get somewhere we need to be. Mechanically there are very few components on a bicycle. Luckily, new bicycles have mechanical components that are zero maintenance by incorporating sealed bearings. The one item on your bike that puts up with the most abuse is your chain. If you don’t take care of it, it can leave you somewhere not moving.
Kustomized Bicycle Magazine knows that a chain needs proper maintenance but we ask ourselves what lubrication should we use? And if we picked what we thought was a good chain lubricant then how would we test it to see if it is better than its competitor. Long gone are the days where we sprayed a chain down with WD-40 and heading down the street. WD-40 leaves only the lightest of lubricants after the alcohol evaporates. Plus that alcohol will strip off whatever lube is on the chain.
There are as many bicycle chain lube bottles on the local bike store (LBS) shelf as women’s hair products at the grocery store. We stood in awe and confusion looking at all the brightly colored spray bottles, aerosol cans and drip bottles. Finally we walked to the bike shop worker guy (who just tried to sell a freshly divorced overweight mom of two a $3,200.00 downhill bike after she explained that she needed a bike to cruise the neighborhood with her kids. <Cough, cough, douche, cough). Not wanting to deal with this shmuck any longer than necessary I asked for the top four selling chain lubes to be put in a small package. I paid my bill and left the store never to return.
Once back at Kustomized Bicycle Magazine headquarters we did some research on each lubricant from their manufacture’s website. We learned a few different things. There are two types of Chain lubricants. Wet and Dry.
Wet lubricants are to be used for snowy, muddy and wet conditions where rust is an issue. As their name implies, a wet lube stays wet on the chain instead of drying. Its viscosity is great enough to stick to the chain but low enough to coat the chain completely. It forms a nice protective coating that repels water and stays between moving components to minimize wear. The problem is using a wet lube in dry dusty conditions will cause dust to stick to the chain making wear even more damaging than using none at all.
The opposite of wet lubes are dry lubricants. Dry lubes are alcohol based which will evaporate leaving a waxy film on your chain. It won’t attract dust and dirt while you ride. Dry lube doesn’t inhibit rust like the wet but since it is to be used in dry conditions rust isn’t an issue.


The Test Protocol.
We clamped a standard old Huffy Red Hot muscle bike on the bike stand and removed the chain guard. We loosened the back wheel and coaster brake arm and took the rusty mess of a chain off and threw it away (it was probably the original anyways). We pulled a new KMC Z410 chain from a package and made it to fit the bike. This is our test subject that we plan on using and abusing to see how the chain lubricants hold up.
The first thing we noticed is that there was already a slick lubricant on the chain straight from the package. It is a rust inhibitor but seemed to have pretty light viscosity. After researching quite a few chain manufacturer’s websites we found that they say that this is a good lube and will be good for the first 100 miles or so. Good to know.
Our testing protocol is as follows: Clean the chain completely then apply each lubrication per each manufacturer’s instructions. Then we will throw water, salt water, dirt and fine dust on the chain and rotate the cranks for 15 minutes per test. We will then inspect the chain through a 10x magnifying glass dirty. We will then clean the chain and inspect it clean.
Application: Starting with a clean chain (sprayed and rubbed down with carburetor cleaner). We followed the manufactures instructions to apply the lubrication. 
Finishline Wet


The bottle says Extreme Riding Conditions…but is it?
Results: This lube is very thick. We dumped clean water and salt water on the chain while rotating the crank over and over and the amount of lube never seemed to lessen. At this point we were very happy with the lube. We then started shaking dirt and dust from an old parmesan cheese container (all science at KBM) and things got gnarly. The lube turned black and it left thick rings of nasty looking sludge all over the chain, sprocket and cog. After rotating the crank for several more minutes you could hear the chain get louder and louder. With the magnifying glass there was nothing to look at on the dirty chain except sludge. t took about 20 minutes to clean the mess from the chain with some carburetor cleaner. Once clean we were able to several bare metal shiny areas on the chain (other than the rollers).
Conclusion: A very good chain lube for wet conditions. Once it dries out wash this stuff off. It might even be better going with nothing than this.


Finishline Dry Teflon
The bottle says All Riding Conditions….but is it?
Results: This is a dry lube and its viscosity is much thinner than the Finishline Wet. It comes out of the body quickly and I think I used about half the bottle making a mess all over the shop floor. After a quick wipe with a shop rag we waited for it to dry. And waited, waited, paint drying, waiting. Several hours later it was dry. Since this is a dry lube we started with the parm shaker of dirt. Not much dirt adhered to any point of the chain. Happy with this we started spraying water on the chain. It was holding up pretty well. Salt water was dumped all over the chain and we continued cranking. It still looked pretty good so we took the chain off and inspected it. We could still see a good coating of the dry lube all over the chain.
Conclusion: Over all this is a very good lube. It doesn’t pick up dirt and dust and can withstand a good amount of water.


Finishline Dry Teflon (Spray)
The can comes with a straw….we love straws.
Results: Using the straw this lube still got all over the bottom part of the bike. It is an annoying mess to clean up. It does take a lot less time to apply but overall you lose time cleaning the bike. So this isn’t a time saver at all. Like the Finishline dry above it also took forever to dry. You would be best leaving your bike sit overnight before you ride. I don’t think the alcohol content evaporates all the way. The next day there were nooks in the chain that were still wet. Time waits for no one so we just continued our testing. Since this is a dry lube we started with the parm shaker of dirt. Since there were still wet waxy spots on the chain the dust and dirt stuck to those areas. Most of the dirt it was rinsed off with the water and salt water and a good amount of lube was still on the chain.

White Lighting Easy Lube
The bottle says it has a Self-Cleaning Agent….does it?
Applying was easy but like the Finishline dry it is very watery. After dripping a drop on each link and waiting for a few minutes we wiped it off with a lint free cloth. It only took about 20 minutes for it to look as though it dried completely. Being a dry lube we started with the trusty parm shaker and dumped dirt and dust over the chain. The contamination didn’t stick to the chain and kept the whole thing quite clean. Starting with the water then salt water we found that the lube was completely washed away. We aren’t sure where the self-cleaning part came in but we really didn’t see it. So it works very well in dry conditions but was gone with the littlest amount of water.

 

SO….We like the Finishline Dry Teflon in the bottle. Though you have to plan ahead and let the lubricant dry but once you do it is golden. We also don’t ride our custom bikes in wet conditions normally. The worst thing we have to worry about is dust from the road coming off traffic and your front tire.
We also like the Finishline Dry with Teflon from the aerosol can. Our other bikes aren’t nearly as pretty as the customs so we would be more worried about actual protection than pretty. So for the errand running fixie or the ever comfortable downhill mountain bike I would use the Finishline Dry with Teflon but plan chain cleaning and lubrication well in advanced to give the lube enough time to dry.
www.finishlineusa.com

colony mid bottom bracket

A bottom bracket is a small piece of your bike that most people don’t really think about. But, without a quality bottom bracket your bike is harder to ride and can be a real pain to deal with. Long gone are the days of one piece cranks with open bearings, outer bearing races and threaded washers. Today we have sealed bearing assemblies that will outlast the old school bearings and have no maintenance needs. These new items are a time saver and the bearing quality is much better than the old rattily made open bearings. 
When finishing up the Kustomized Bicycle Magazine bike we looked for a bottom bracket. It needed to fit a 19mm axle that came with the 3-piece crank, be strong to take years of pounding with an overweight bike, fit a BMX length bottom bracket shell and have the looks to match the rest of the bike.
We picked the Colony Bottom Bracket Kit with an oil slick finish.
We have liked Colony products in the past. They are a rider owned manufacturer of quality BMX parts in Australia and have yet to let us down with quality and fit.


The Colony Bottom Bracket Kit met all our needs:
Fit a 19mm axle? The Colony kit is available in both 19mm and 22 mm sizes.
Strong enough to take years of riding? The kit includes 2 CNC machined 6061 T6 Alloy aluminum cone spacers, precision sealed bearings, and an internal spacer.
Fit a BMX Length Bottom Bracket Shell? Colony manufactures BMX only parts and have always had great quality.
Have the looks to match other components? The cone CNC machined detail is new and cool looking and they come in Black, Red, Purple, Blue, Polished and Oil Slick.
Colony’s instructions comes with the package along with different thickness spacers allows for easy assembly with a wide range of fitment. 
After several rides under our belt we pulled Colony’s assembly apart checking for wear. With everything looking still brand new we re-greased the outside of the bearing and reassembled. Priced at $29.95 and widely available you should check out Colony’s Bottom Bracket Kit for your bearing assembly needs.
colonybmx.com.au
info@colonybmx.com.au